Is radiant barrier worth it in texas

Eight Point

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: DFW, Texas

Hunt In: Anywhere I'm invited!

My electric bills are pretty high in the summer. Any experiences with a radiant barrier? Is it worth it to have a radiant barrier put in? If so, who in the DFW area should I use?

Ten Point

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Austin, TX

would like to know this as well....also any experiences with spray on insulation in crawl space under house.

Ten Point

Join Date: Oct 2009

Location: Dallas, Tx

isn't radiant foil better?

wee

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Hill Country, South Texas, Florida

Hunt In: a high fence, southwest of DFW, Colorado

I know a guy.....

call me later tonight, Scott -- I've typed this same response too many times to do it again.

Ten Point

Join Date: Dec 2009

Location: Mansfield

ttt...would also like to know. Also rough idea of what it costs and how big your house was.

Pope & Young

I had the old style radiant barrier installed about 10 years ago....it is working good, but the stuff they use today is much better than the stuff I have. Radiant barrier comes in three ways, the foil type that comes installed on the plywood for the roof decking, foil that you attach to an existing roof decking and the spray. Overall the material already on tne roof decking and is installed when the decking is originally installed is the best. The next is the foil that you install on your existing deck, then finally the spray on. Most folks go with the spray on. A do it urselfer could install either the foam or the spray but you need to right tools to do both properly. I highly recommend the radiant barriers. But it is only one thing out of many to help you electric bills in the big picture. Adding better windows, adding extra attic insulation, replacing a old AC unit are the others.....after doing all the above my electric bills are about 30% lower than last year......normal for electric bill in August is $350-$400 this year was $175.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2007

Location: Scroggins, Tx

Had the foil type put in my house when being built. House next to me was being built at the same time without a radiant barrier (middle of summer). I crawled in both attics and was unreal the difference between the two. I bet my attic was at least 30 degrees cooler.

Ten Point

I had a buddy spray my attick last spring 1800 sq. ft. and my summer power bill
went from $370 pre month to $180 this summer and the spray cost $325. Now how long it will last who knows????

Ten Point

Join Date: Dec 2006

Location: Kaufman county

Hunt In: San Saba/ Van Zant,Kaufman countys

So I have 1,900 sq ft house how much does it cost to have it sprayed? Just round about cost.

Eight Point

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: DFW, Texas

Hunt In: Anywhere I'm invited!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atfulldraw

I know a guy.....

call me later tonight, Scott -- I've typed this same response too many times to do it again.

Will do!

Thanks.
Scott

Pope & Young

Join Date: Apr 2008

Location: Cedar creek

Hunt In: Elgin/Bastrop county

I do this every day of my life! lol I dig my finger in the money pot of the city of Austin for the weatherization program. Radiant barrier will def make a big diffrence. Partner that with loosefill blow in and it will cut your bill way down. Another thing to look at is sealing your ducts, sealing around your windows glass, take off electrical plates that touch exterior walls and calk the space. I also make solar screens and they make a diffrence. Look at all your plumbing penetrations and if they have gaps seal them too. One of the biggest energy factors are your light bulbs. Replace all your regular bulbs with cfls. Regular bulbs at 60 watts take 60 watts of power. If you have 20 bulbs then thats 1200 watts of energy with regular. Cfls will give off 60 watts but use 14 watts of energy giving you 280 watts of power on your bill instead of 1200 with the same amount of light.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Dec 2009

Location: Wimberley

Hunt In: Comstock

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuntriderant

I do this every day of my life! lol I dig my finger in the money pot of the city of Austin for the weatherization program. Radiant barrier will def make a big diffrence. Partner that with loosefill blow in and it will cut your bill way down. Another thing to look at is sealing your ducts, sealing around your windows glass, take off electrical plates that touch exterior walls and calk the space. I also make solar screens and they make a diffrence. Look at all your plumbing penetrations and if they have gaps seal them too. One of the biggest energy factors are your light bulbs. Replace all your regular bulbs with cfls. Regular bulbs at 60 watts take 60 watts of power. If you have 20 bulbs then thats 1200 watts of energy with regular. Cfls will give off 60 watts but use 14 watts of energy giving you 280 watts of power on your bill instead of 1200 with the same amount of light.

THIS!

I work in a lot of attics as an a/c tech, and I can say that the shiny radiant barriers do seem to cut down on some of the heat load. Attic fans are another good tool. To me, the best thing you can do to cut your electric bill is make sure your attic insulation is at least r-30; lots of homes are being built with r-49 these days.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Apr 2008

Location: Cedar creek

Hunt In: Elgin/Bastrop county

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowhntrmatt

THIS!

I work in a lot of attics as an a/c tech, and I can say that the shiny radiant barriers do seem to cut down on some of the heat load. Attic fans are another good tool. To me, the best thing you can do to cut your electric bill is make sure your attic insulation is at least r-30; lots of homes are being built with r-49 these days.

Thats correct. The inspectors for the city of Austin require a r-38 which is 14 1/2 inches. I also conduct duct blaster and blower door test which check your ac duct system and your house for leakage. If your ac ducts are leaky, then all your money is really goin into your attic. Not very efficent. Also look around all your doors for light. If theres light, put rubber bulbed weather stripping.

Ten Point

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Carrollton

Hunt In: Govt Cheese and Invites

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdfrench

Share Rod's answer!

Eight Point

Join Date: Aug 2010

Location: Teague

Hunt In: Mills county

I need to try something.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Apr 2008

Location: Cedar creek

Hunt In: Elgin/Bastrop county

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmj

I need to try something.

Try it! lol what ya tryin?

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Edna Tx

Hunt In: At Gary's place ,and the backyard

I just had my house insulated with spray foam last month . Had the attic sprayed with a layer of 6inches of foam on the rafters and 3 inches of foam under the house . It has made a huge difference in the comfort of my house . In the heat of the day my ac would not turn off and the house would get hot up to the low 80's . Now my ac will cycle and maintain a cool 72 no problem .

Pope & Young

Join Date: Apr 2008

Location: Cedar creek

Hunt In: Elgin/Bastrop county

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strummer

I just had my house insulated with spray foam last month . Had the attic sprayed with a layer of 6inches of foam on the rafters and 3 inches of foam under the house . It has made a huge difference in the comfort of my house . In the heat of the day my ac would not turn off and the house would get hot up to the low 80's . Now my ac will cycle and maintain a cool 72 no problem .

Great to hear!

Pope & Young

Join Date: Dec 2009

Location: Wimberley

Hunt In: Comstock

Oh yeah...I did a house a few months back where they spray-foamed the whole thing-rafters and walls with open-cell and closed-cell underneath if I remember right. I had to downsize the a/c a ton AND add a fresh-air intake, which is something I normally hate to do, but the AC wouldn't run enough to keep the moisture outta the air. Good Stuff!

Pope & Young

Join Date: Jan 2007

Location: GPS doesn't know...

If it is a new home and you can caulk all the studs and windows before any insulation goes in that will be amazing on dust and cut utilities way down. Definitely worth it.

Ten Point

Join Date: Sep 2009

Location: Buckholts,Tx.

Hunt In: Milam County

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowhntrmatt

Oh yeah...I did a house a few months back where they spray-foamed the whole thing-rafters and walls with open-cell and closed-cell underneath if I remember right. I had to downsize the a/c a ton AND add a fresh-air intake, which is something I normally hate to do, but the AC wouldn't run enough to keep the moisture outta the air. Good Stuff!

Those foamed attics are nice to work in aren't they?

Pope & Young

Join Date: Apr 2008

Location: Cedar creek

Hunt In: Elgin/Bastrop county

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bubbabowhunter

Those foamed attics are nice to work in aren't they?

Foamed attics are way better than crwlin through cellouse or any blow in for that matter. I wear a resperator but its still nasty stuff especially when changing ducts or havin to seal buckets to the sheetrock with mastics!

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Spring

Hunt In: Wherever & Whenever

I could not imagine a house without it, when we replaced the wood shake shingles on our other home with normal shingles we put up the LP foil radiant plywood! It reduced the montly cost by nearly $125 per/month on 3,300 square feet.

We went HOGWILD on the energy options. Even with that being said and adding a whole house central vacuum system at the last minute we came in slightly under budget:
Energy Efficient Low E Double Insulated Vinyl Windows and the house primarilary faces North & South which reduces your energy cost significantly.
R-13 Blown Cellulose
R-3 Foil radiant sheating which equals continous insulation which in-turn air seals the entire house.
Attic - Foil radiant barrier, solar attic vents with multiple extra intakes.
R-50 cellulose insulation on the attic ceiling.
AC: Two stage 16.5 SEER systems with multiple zone control with oversize return air!
Jumpers in the bedrooms
Central Vacuum System throughout the entire house, garage and my office/trophy room space. It keeps the air cleaner and helps with any allergents.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Mar 2010

Location: Sweetwater TX

Hunt In: Nolan and Fisher Counties

Search the DIY section for attic foil and there is alot of good info in there. I'm going to be putting it in this fall when it cools down some.

Banned!!!

Join Date: Nov 2009

Location: Just a temporary home...

we used something called raidience or something like that. we sprayed it on. never had an electric bill over 150 even in aug/sept.

Ten Point

Join Date: Jul 2010

Location: TX

Hunt In: Meridian TX

What would you guys recommend on a Mid fifties ranch style home ( 1800 sqft) on a slab, minimal insulation in attic. At this point we might have 2 inches of fiberglass roll out insulation in the attic.
What should i do, ( feasible solutions please) Blow in, spray on, got radiant barrier on roof decking.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Apr 2008

Location: Cedar creek

Hunt In: Elgin/Bastrop county

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowmech

What would you guys recommend on a Mid fifties ranch style home ( 1800 sqft) on a slab, minimal insulation in attic. At this point we might have 2 inches of fiberglass roll out insulation in the attic.
What should i do, ( feasible solutions please) Blow in, spray on, got radiant barrier on roof decking.

Blow in insulsafe over the pink bat roll in is the best thing for the situation. May become costly but will pay for itself within a year.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Sealy, Tx

Radiant barriers work great and so does insulation but one overlooked aspect of an efficient attic is the ventilation. You need a power vent to pull the hot air out. We used solar powered vents. (no electricity used). No passive systems, (ridge vents, turbines or hawks) are effective enough. Proper venting, along with a radiant barrier can increase your existing insulations effectivness by up to 40% so don't overlook properly venting the attic.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Aug 2008

Location: Ovilla, TX

I was sitting in Babe's chicken one day when two guys sat down at the table next to me. They worked for a big radiant barrier company and talked about how it does lower bills but it also cuts your roof life in half.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Montgomery County

Hunt In: Where ever I can

Rod, type once more please. I'm building a new home this is in line with several decisions I'm wrestling with.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Hill Country, South Texas, Florida

Hunt In: a high fence, southwest of DFW, Colorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by k9trainer

I was sitting in Babe's chicken one day when two guys sat down at the table next to me. They worked for a big radiant barrier company and talked about how it does lower bills but it also cuts your roof life in half.

I've heard that as well -- I think it's bunk, but I've heard it....

Most twenty-five year roofs are going to last 12-15 years IF they don't get hit by hail or a hurricane in Texas. A thirty year roof is gonna last, on average, 16-20. The heat from the top is the killer of roofs here...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atfulldraw

Here's my suggestion, although there is some very good advice in this thread.

Radiant Barrier -- the foil-back roof decking is the best, followed by staple up products that cover the entire rafter surface.

The spray in systems IMO are a waste of money (as are the paint-in systems)

For insulation, use fiberglass blow-in -- R-49 at a minimum. Go right on top of whatever you have -- Home Depot will rent you a blower for free if you buy enough insulation there.

Ventilation is key -- if you have a gable you can buy a 1500 cfm fan for less than $100 -- it will make a huge difference. Otherwise, use power roof vents -- read on the box for how many to use - and use 1 more than they recommend.

There are literally thousands of factors that affect your home's efficiency.

One of the easiest things to do is to seal air leaks in your home. Use an incense stick to check for air leaks around doors and windows --- then seal those leaks. I promise you will be surprised at how many drafts you have.

I'm not in your area, but I'll be glad to talk to you about it -- my cell is 214-244-1329.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atfulldraw

Yes, the radiant barrier plywood is the best -- it's really hard to get a return on investment with the spray on systems. If you aren't redecking the roof, I would recommend a quality installation of roll radiant barrier. I also like the foam insulation at the decking (rafter) level.

In our climate, if you can get your attic to just be

the ambient temperature outside (within 10 degrees,) you are taking a considerable load off of your a/c units and making a huge difference in how your home feels. There are a number of ways to accomplish this...

Exhaust fans to exchange your hot attic air for the relatively cooler outside air.
Foam insulation at the roof level to slow heat transfer into the attic.
Radiant barriers to shield the attic from heat that is transferred via radiant energy.
Insulation at joist level to shield the living area from the heat of the attic.
Insulating the duct system to slow heat transfer.

A combination of all of these is probably the best solution, but as Snakelover pointed out, you can get into a situation where one fan is robbing another, plus, at some point you reach a point where you have spent more than you will ever save.

I can go on and on, but Google is your friend.

I was in two attics this morning -- one without a radiant barrier at 10:45am and one with RB at 11:30. The temperature difference was about twenty five degrees....the radiant barrier attic was still hot, but bearable. The other one was basically to hot to even look around, much less work in it.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Hill Country, South Texas, Florida

Hunt In: a high fence, southwest of DFW, Colorado

In Dallas -- attic temp in the summer are in the 140's.....

With radiant barrier and adequate ventilation, I can get an attic to within 10 degrees of the ambient air temp.

On an average summer day, that means somewhere south of 110 degrees.....that's a big difference.

Mainly, the comfort level is what you will notice. Of course, your HVAC won't be working as hard, it will last longer and your energy costs will go down, but the most noticeable difference will be in the way it feels. There is no longer that hot air in the attic transferring heat to the top three feet of a room, where it just sits....coincidentally that is the same three feet that is occupied by your head.

Here's the original thread ----

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...hlight=radiant

Pope & Young

Join Date: Jan 2009

Location: Kings Creek Golf Club, Kemp TX

Hunt In: USA, Concho County and S.E.Colorado

I have radient barrier in my attic along with solar powered attic ventilators. Cut my energy bill by 20%. It works and no it does not hurt your roof, make it last longer if anything.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Jul 2009

Location: Nevada Tx.

Hunt In: Stephen Co.

EAS they give away insolation with some of there deals. Well worth the money IMO

Pope & Young

Join Date: Sep 2009

Location: Flint, TX

Hunt In: Outside

yes it is worth it

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Wise Cty

Hunt In: Young Cty

Quote:

Originally Posted by k9trainer

I was sitting in Babe's chicken one day when two guys sat down at the table next to me. They worked for a big radiant barrier company and talked about how it does lower bills but it also cuts your roof life in half.

I've heard that too, and I don't buy it. Ambient temp of the shingles on a house with vs without radiant barrier is near 0 difference. Besides, a composition roof in Texas isn't going to last more than 10 years without hail beating it up....at least up here it aint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bboswell

Rod, type once more please. I'm building a new home this is in line with several decisions I'm wrestling with.

Don't even consider NOT using it! I wish I'd had the whole bottom of the roof foamed...

Rod, our new house is about 2000ft, with solar shield decking, has all 10, and 12/12 roof......ridge vents on all horizontal ridges, and continuous vent soffet all the way around. My electric bill is not bad at all, and I keep it 76 during the day and 72 at night.

Do you think a solar powered vent fan would be of any noticeable benefit? And do you know how much they run?

Last edited by Dale Moser; 09-15-2010 at 04:09 PM.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Aug 2008

Location: Ovilla, TX

was just throwing it out there, didn't by any means mean it was true or not. Just something I heard

Ten Point

Join Date: Dec 2009

Location: Mansfield

Ok, good info here...so now a REALLY good question...

Who is going to come do my house?

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Edna Tx

Hunt In: At Gary's place ,and the backyard

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowmech

What would you guys recommend on a Mid fifties ranch style home ( 1800 sqft) on a slab, minimal insulation in attic. At this point we might have 2 inches of fiberglass roll out insulation in the attic.
What should i do, ( feasible solutions please) Blow in, spray on, got radiant barrier on roof decking.

My house was built in the 40's and I went the spray foam. i got a real good deal on it I think . I paid a 1.50 a square foot or it. Check the guys out .
http://www.dbard.com/

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Hill Country, South Texas, Florida

Hunt In: a high fence, southwest of DFW, Colorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dale Moser

Rod, our new house is about 2000ft, with solar shield decking, has all 10, and 12/12 roof......ridge vents on all horizontal ridges, and continuous vent soffet all the way around. My electric bill is not bad at all, and I keep it 76 during the day and 72 at night.

Do you think a solar powered vent fan would be of any noticeable benefit? And do you know how much they run?

Dale, what's your attic temp running during the hot part of the day now?

10 watt about $300 each

20 watt about $400 each

30 watt about $500 each

those aren't installed -- just the part

if the temp isn't over 115 or so, I wouldn't worry about it -- you are probably blocking a good 80% of the heat with the solar shield and getting rid of the rest of it with your current venting -- It's gonna take about six of those 20 watters to make a noticeable difference in your attic --

go ahead and beatify the prairie -- plant some trees.

Pope & Young

Join Date: May 2010

Location: Bryan

Hunt In: anywhere

Quote:

Originally Posted by k9trainer

I was sitting in Babe's chicken one day when two guys sat down at the table next to me. They worked for a big radiant barrier company and talked about how it does lower bills but it also cuts your roof life in half.

i have heard this as well. radiant barrier and spray on insulation applied to the roof cuts shingle and metal roof lifes in half.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Hill Country, South Texas, Florida

Hunt In: a high fence, southwest of DFW, Colorado

It sounds like junk science and hearsay to me.

For one, metal roofs are a radiant barrier in themselves.

Further, I don't know of a single shingle manufacturer that will void a warranty if you have a radiant barrier installed.

To me, that speaks volumes about the industry's perspective (especially an industry that sells their product based on the years of warranty provided -- 20, 25 30 year shingles)

Ten Point

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Brady Tx.

Hunt In: Hopkins, Hunt, McCulloch county

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atfulldraw

It sounds like junk science and hearsay to me.

For one, metal roofs are a radiant barrier in themselves.

Further, I don't know of a single shingle manufacturer that will void a warranty if you have a radiant barrier installed.

To me, that speaks volumes about the industry's perspective (especially an industry that sells their product based on the years of warranty provided -- 20, 25 30 year shingles)

x2

Eight Point

Join Date: Feb 2007

Location: Kerrville,TX

Hunt In: Menard, Back Yard

I had EAS do my house two weeks ago and I can already tell the difference. It cost me about $1500 for the rb plus five inches of blown in insulation.

Pope & Young

Join Date: Jun 2009

Location: Willis Texas

Hunt In: Webb County

yes....

Pope & Young

Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: Wise Cty

Hunt In: Young Cty

Thanks, Rod.

Trees it shall be........or maybe concrete!