2010 mazda cx 9 key programming

This morning after trying to see if I could find a parameter with FORscan as I open the door to leave, the car didn't beep. So I tried the programming procedure and got the car acknowledgement (lock/unlock). But before I could finish the full programming the car started beeping again and didn't program. I am wondering now if the problem is that some sensor in the keyhole is broken or something. Clearly the double beeping each second is what causes the problem. I just can tell what the double beep indicates.

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chcastanPosts: 5Joined: Fri Sep 06, 2019 2:50 amVehicle: Mazda CX 9, 3.5 L V6, 273 hp, 2010

Re: 2010 Mazda CX 9 - Remote Keyless Entry can't program

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Post by chcastan » Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:06 pm

I think I found what my problem is: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda3 ... blem-12858

"From what I understand there's a metal piece that the key pushes out of the way and tells the car there's a key in the ignition and that piece becomes stuck. It wouldn't really be a problem except that our keyless entry doesn't work when there's a key in."

That describes my problem exactly. I imagine that after putting in and out keys so much, that little sensor got stuck and that is why I can't program the remotes. Since I was so focused on the fob and being new to FORscan, I got the problem all entangled. I am so looking forward to test if that solves the problem... I'll be reporting soon.

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chcastanPosts: 5Joined: Fri Sep 06, 2019 2:50 amVehicle: Mazda CX 9, 3.5 L V6, 273 hp, 2010

Re: 2010 Mazda CX 9 - Remote Keyless Entry can't program

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Post by chcastan » Sat Sep 14, 2019 9:26 pm

Ok, finally figured out what the problem is. The key has a mechanical sensor which is NOT directly part of the Ignition Lock Cylinder, but it is attached right next to it and senses a little piece of plastic that IS part of the Ignition Lock Cylinder. The solution is actually piece of cake and here it is: To access the *ignition key lock cylinder* and also the key sensor push switch, you need to unlock and pull the driving wheel towards the front (to give yourself some space to work). You can easily pop the top part covering the area of interest. Then remove 3 star screes from underneath the wheel and put it aside. Now you should have a good view of your working area, like so: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 There are two things connected, one is the transponder (white connector with some red plastic, in the image it is unplugged), and a black connector with two wires. That IS the KEY SENSOR. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 The not so elegant, but simplest solution is to unplug that black connector. The car will not beep if you forget the key in the ignition, but the car still starts normally and your remotes should work now. END of story [YOU CAN STOP HERE]. If you want to learn more details continue reading. The unplugging looks like this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 That white little plug IS the key sensor itself. When everything is assembled it matches inside the lock with the white little plastic part that is part of the key lock cylinder and in my case seems to be a bit worn, like so: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 That white plastic part in turn matches with the GREEN plastic part in the cylinder itself. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 When the key is inserted, like in the image it pushes the green part, which in turn pushes the white part of the cylinder, which pushes out the white little plug which is the key sensor and is wired in the second image. In the lock, it looks like of like this: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...x0OHdXT3lzTmJ3 To recap. If your car always *thinks* the key is inserted maybe because the green part in the cylinder is stuck (dirt), or the white part in the cylinder is stuck, or the little "plug switch" is bad. Replacing the *Key Lock Cylinder* which is a $500 dollar part might or might NOT solve the problem depending if the problem is a cylinder plastic part or it is the switch. If you simply unplug the switch, you won*t get alarms if you leave the key in the ignition, but that solve the problem. I never care for the alarm for forgetting the key anyway. Your call. I hope this help somebody out there. I wish I had found this explanation last week.

2010 Mazda CX-9 Remote Programming

1. Get in vehicle and close all doors, then open the drivers door and leave it open.
2. Within 24 seconds you must insert key into the ignition and cycle the ignition switch to ON and then OFF three times and leave the key in the ignition. Then close and open the drivers door three times.
3. When done properly the doors will automatically lock and then unlock. Now the vehicle is in programming mode. If locks do not cycle you must start the procedure over.
4. Push the unlock button twice on the first remote to be programmed. The door locks will cycle automatically to indicate successful programming. If there is only one remote to be programmed to the vehicle you must push any button twice again on the same remote, wait for locks to cycle, then push any button twice one more time on the same remote.
If there are two remotes to be programmed then press any button on the second remote twice, wait for locks to cycle, then push any button twice again on the second remote. To program three remotes to this vehicle you must press button twice on second remote, wait for locks to cycle, then press any button twice on the third remote.
5. Programming is now complete. Close the door and test remotes to ensure proper programming.

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